Large Tripod FEISOL CT-3372 M2 combined with the old CT-3371 - old meets new for a working photographers hybrid long lens tripod

The new CT-3372 M2 combined with the old CT-3371 legs, and old leveling cup with base plate. The cup and tripod are new, and carbon legs and leveling base are off the old CT-3371. ©tonybynum

The hybrid Feisol CT-3372 M2. The rescued legs and leveling base from the original CT- 3371 combined with the new Feisol CT-3372. Why, how, and how much?

Why Feisol

I purchased the original carbon CT-3371 Feisol Tripod legs back around 2006 or so. At the time, Feisol wasn’t well known, in fact, they didn’t even have a US dealer yet so I ordered it direct from Taiwan. I was looking for a carbon tripod that would hold large, heavy 5oo, and 600 mm f4 lenses attached to full-size professional DSLR bodies.

I decided on the Feisol CT-3371 for its lower price point. Keep in mind that back in 2006 carbon fiber tripods were NOT inexpensive! My plan was to use it in the wet, salty mash for duck photography and rather than take the chance of wrecking a $2000 tripod I was going to dedicate this tripod to the marsh. I reserved my more expensive tripod for land and clean water, and went ahead and took my chances with a tripod selling for a third the price but still, carbon and built stout enough to hold safely 25 lbs. I equipped the Feisol with a leveling base and spiked feet (both at additional cost). I don’t recall the price but it was less than half what the big brands were charging at the time.

Breakage and Repair

Over the course of a few years, I managed to break the leg collars. The cast aluminum is not strong enough and too much pressure will break the casting. In 2009 I sent the unit back to Feisol for repair. I had broken two of the top leg locks and needed them repaired. Breaking the top leg locks is not uncommon especially when you’re putting the legs deep into snow, mud, or sand. I’ve broken the same parts on the more expensive and supposedly better built Gitzo units too and it’s not cheap to fix, plus you’re out for a bit while it’s being repaired.

The results of too much pressure on the top of the tripod while pushing the legs into the mud or snow. The cast aluminum is not strong enough to take the pressure. All three leg locks eventually broke. ©tonybynum

As you can clearly see, all three of the top leg sleeves broke out. This view is the top of the tripod where the legs are attached to the center collar. In this image, the center piece (leveling base in this case) has been removed and the tripod is sitting legs spread out flat. Notice, one pin and the springs are still in the top sleeve (top center of image), the pin and springs will eventually fall out. Needless to say, the tripod is hard to operate when there are not leg locks! ©tonybynum.com

Feisol fixed the tripod for a price, then sent it back. I took it back out and by 2018 I had broken all three top leg collar locks again. At this point, the tripod was almost useless to me. So, after the spring waterfowl season, I emailed Feisol and asked about getting the tripod fixed. Feisol said $85 to fix it with OEM parts and send it back. With shipping on my end, it was about $100 bucks, seemed reasonable to me so I boxed it up and mailed it.

After a few more emails back and forth with Feisol (their customer service was fantastic), I asked if they had a stronger center support piece. Much to my surprise, they said yes and for about $60 more I could have them put a machined billet aluminum top collar on the old legs and update the leveling base plate. I said go for it.

The result us the older CT-3371 legs with the new CT-3372 M2 solid machined aluminum top collar and leveling plate bowl insert. The following images illustrate the pieces and the combination of parts to make the hybrid unit, plus a shot of the tripod with the King Cobra gimble head.

Unboxing the Hybrid CT-3371 CT-3372 M2. Nicely wrapped.

The new tripod with the CT-3372 M2 collars and the old CT-3371 legs.

The new leveling bowl that will replace the flat plate and quarter twenty threaded bolt. There are three small hex key bolts to remove then the plate. The leveling bowl replaces the plate and once the bolts are replaced, it fits securely into place.

The new top collar with bubble level, and plate. I’m removing the allen head bolt so that I can replace the flat plate with the leveling bowl.

The new leveling base bowl.

The new ball head plate removed, the new leveling base bowl, and the old bowl off the old collar.

The old leveling base. It will fit into the new leveling bowl.

The new old leveling base inside the new bowl.

Notice the angle of the leveling base. It’s not a lot of movement, but it’s enough to quickly level your gimbal head quickly and accurately.

The older head and the new sold aluminum base both have leveling bubbles.

The Kirk King Cobra gimbal head attached to the new hybrid Feisol CT-3372 M2 read for the marsh!

Old meets new. The Hybrid CT-3371 and CT-3372 M2 with leveling base and Kirk King Cobra gimbal (King Cobra is discontinued).

Summery & Conclusion

I’m happy with the results. For just over $150 bucks I was able to have a solid tripod. I was worried that if I went with the old cast aluminum I’d be back in another few years having it replaced again. This fix should now allow me to use this tripod for many years without breaking it. I still have to be careful to not put too much pressure on the legs when they’re in the mud or snow, but now I’m positive this new unit will last a long time.

As a professional photographer, customer service is important. Feisol helped me combine my old broken tripod with the newer components making for a better tripod in the end. It would be hard to find better customer service. They were quick to respond and willing to help find solutions and recommend alternatives. I gladly recommend Feisol to anyone looking for a reasonably priced, solidly built carbon tripod with great customer support.

www.feisol.net

Leave a comment or ask me a question. I’ll be happy to answer.

Tony

Wildlife Photography - Camera Heads - Ball Head or Gimbal?

There is no perfect camera head, but at times you can’t do without one. I use both a gimbal (movement around a single access) and a ball head, sometimes one is better than the other.  At the end of the day, I find that for big game in rugged, uneven country, (the kind I’m most likely to be in) a good ball-head is best. I use the large Really Right Stuff head (RRS).  About a year ago I switched over to RRS legs (from gitzo) and ball-heads because they are fine, precision, hand made American tools. They cost a bit more but they are worth the extra expense, and I like to support U.S. camera gear makers when I can find them.

When shooting big game or other wildlife with a 500 mm f4 or smaller, I go with a ball-head mainly because I can move faster and get set up quicker. Trust me, with the right technique, you’ll bring home more keepers shooting a good ball-head than a gimbal - I'd challenge you to prove me wrong . . .   It takes at least twice as long to set up a gimble than it does to plop down a set of legs and ball-head and start shooting. With a gimbal setup, to be most effective, you need a leveling base, and then you have to level the unit before you can effectively shoot with it, otherwise, if you're slightly off level with the head and legs, it makes it tough to get a straight, square horizon. If your legs and head are not level, you’ll get a lot of images that are NOT square, resulting in more post processing work (unlevel or angled shots are one thing I can pick out from a mile away and usually cause me to reject a photo, not to mention they scream amateur and sloppy)! I would rather get it square with my eye than I would with a computer.

I know there are a ton of guys that would argue with me.  Most use a gimbal for wildlife, I use it only when it's the right tool for the job. That means, for me, a gimbal is the right tool for shooting waterfowl and birds. I use the gimbal style head when I have time to set up and get the rig level, I know I’ll be stationary for a long time, or I know I’ll be doing a lot of panning.

I use a Kirk King Cobra gimbal, it's lighter, smaller, packs easier, and in my view, allows for a more true movement up and down. The other option, and the one most often used by professional photographers is the Wimberly Head. The Wimberly is a fantastic tool, but requires that you push the lens forward for up and pull back for down, and you must have it level! The King Cobra allows for a more natural movement, up and down.

Shooting with a ball-head most of time, puts me in the minority. I don’t know why since a ball-head is faster and more accurate in many situations. I see very few people using the ball-head setup . . .  Most gravitate to Wimberly (some guys even shoot the 200 mm lens or smaller from a Wimberly mount - I don’t know why). So, if you’re shooting a 600 mm or larger lens, or birds in flight, and have the time to set up properly, a gimbal is superior to a ball-head, but for 90% of the time, when I need a tripod and head, I go with the ball-head.

Add your thoughts are a question and I’ll be sure to provide my feedback!

Tony